Walk down any skincare aisle, and you're bombarded with products promising revolutionary results: essences, ampoules, sleeping masks, and a dozen different serums. It's easy to believe that more is more. But as a dermatologist, I assure you, less is often far more effective.
A complicated routine can lead to irritation, a damaged skin barrier, and a confused sense of what's actually working. Before you even think about adding potent "actives" or targeted treatments, you must master the fundamentals.
I call this the "Core Four" – the non-negotiable pillars of any skincare routine, for any skin type, at any age.
Pillar 1: Cleanse (AM/PM)
The goal of cleansing is simple: remove makeup, sunscreen, dirt, and excess oil without stripping your skin of its essential moisture. Over-cleansing is one of the most common mistakes I see in my practice.
How to Choose:
For Dry or Sensitive Skin: Look for cream, lotion, or oil-based cleansers. These are gentle and hydrating. Avoid anything that leaves your skin feeling "squeaky clean"—that's a sign of a compromised barrier.
For Oily or Acne-Prone Skin: Gel or foaming cleansers can be effective. Look for gentle formulas, perhaps with a touch of salicylic acid if you are particularly prone to breakouts, but ensure it doesn't leave your skin feeling tight and uncomfortable.
Derm Tip: Double cleansing in the evening (first with an oil-based cleanser to break down makeup/sunscreen, followed by a water-based cleanser) can be highly effective, especially for heavy makeup wearers.
Pillar 2: Moisturise (AM/PM)
Moisturiser does two critical jobs: it infuses the skin with hydration (water) and it locks that moisture in by supporting your skin barrier (lipids/oils). Every single person needs a moisturiser, even those with oily skin.
How to Choose:
For Oily Skin: Lightweight, oil-free lotions or gel creams are your best friend. Look for humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
For Dry Skin: Richer creams containing ceramides, shea butter, and lipids are ideal for repairing and nourishing the skin barrier.
Derm Tip: Apply your moisturiser to slightly damp skin. This helps to trap the surface water, making the hydrating ingredients even more effective.
Pillar 3: Protect (AM)
If you only do one thing for your skin, let this be it. Daily sun protection is the single most effective anti-aging and anti-cancer tool in our arsenal. It prevents the breakdown of collagen, the formation of dark spots, and protects against skin cancer.
How to Choose:
The Golden Rule: Choose a Broad-Spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. Broad-spectrum protects against both UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) rays.
Mineral vs. Chemical: Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) sit on top of the skin and physically block rays. They are often better for sensitive skin. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV radiation and convert it into heat. They are often more cosmetically elegant and sheer. The best sunscreen is the one you will wear every single day.
Derm Tip: The "two-finger rule" is a great way to measure. Squeeze a line of sunscreen onto your index and middle fingers. This is the approximate amount you need for your face and neck. And don't forget to reapply every two hours if you're outdoors.
Pillar 4: Treat (PM)
This is the step where you incorporate an "active" ingredient to target your specific concerns (e.g., acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines). For a foundational routine, the most universally beneficial and well-studied ingredient is a retinoid.
How to Choose:
For Beginners: Start with an over-the-counter retinol or retinaldehyde. These are less potent than prescription versions and are a great entry point.
For Experienced Users: Prescription tretinoin offers the most significant benefits but requires a doctor's consultation.
Derm Tip: Use only a pea-sized amount for your entire face at night. Start by applying it just 2-3 nights a week over your moisturiser (the "sandwich method") to minimise irritation, and slowly increase the frequency as your skin adapts.
Master these Core Four steps for a month. Once your skin is calm, balanced, and consistently cared for, then you can begin to thoughtfully incorporate other serums or treatments.
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