Master Skincare Routine Steps with Dr.TWL
Navigating skincare routine steps can be confusing. In this week’s newsletter, I’ll go through the science of each skincare step and how each skincare product is designed to deliver optimal results for various skin concerns.
Here are some short lecture notes which accompany the video:
Day and Night Skincare Routine Steps
Double Cleansing
2 step process
Removing makeup and sunscreen
Followed by second cleanse.
First Cleanse
Oil soluble pigments, sebum, grime
Second Cleanse
Remove residue
Cleansing Goals
Restore the healthy skin microbiome
Respect the skin barrier
Cleanse skin and restore moisture levels.
Skincare Routine Step 1
Micellar water vs milk cleanser
Micellar cons: Friction or rubbing is inevitable and this can be harsh for sensitive skin
Oil cleanser cons: too greasy
Milk cleanser ideal
Skincare Routine Step 2
Gentle lathering agents with honey or soy, or similar botanical emulsifiers
Skincare Routine Step 3 Serum Application
Multi-weighted molecular hyaluronic acid
Stabilised forms of vitamin C
L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Choose:
Multi-weighted molecular hyaluronic acid has benefits because it can act on multiple layers of skin and activate different targets
Stabilised forms of vitamin C
Skincare Routine Step 4 Emulsion
Lightweight
Oil-in-water texture
Feels comfortable on skin throughout the day
Quickly absorbed
Oil-in-water texture is the ideal day moisturiser
Ceramides
Plant antioxidants
Skincare Routine Step 5 Facial Mist
Hyaluronic acid
Polyglutamic acid
Hygroscopic molecules
Prevents transepidermal water loss
Key step to increase penetration of all the skincare actives
Skincare Routine Step 6 Sunscreen
Wait 2-3 minutes for the facial mist to fully absorb before applying sunscreen. The ideal sunscreen formula should possess the following properties:
Lightweight
Non-comedogenic
Broad spectrum SPF 50
Face & Eye Cream application
Ceramide-based moisturiser
The LITTLE SKINCARE BOOK FOR WOMEN combines a skincare planner and barrier repair protocol guide by Dr. Teo Wan Lin to help you on on your skincare routine journey.
Night Skincare Routine Step: Targeted treatment
Prescription retinoids
Hydroquinone
OTC retinol
Weekly Treatment Routine
Exfoliation
Masking
FOCUS ON ACNE:
Check out our newly launched skin encyclopedia here.
CLEANSING:
Acne itself is caused by genetics, bacteria and oil production triggered by hormones all of which lead to inflammation and formation of comedones, papules and cysts.
The ideal acne skincare routine treats the skin microbiome, regulates the skin microenvironment, oil production and also reduces inflammation and flare-ups.
Cleansing plays a huge role, as do spot acne treatments. The Honey Cleanser is suitable for universal skin types, aids in skin barrier repair and also is anti-inflammatory. It is boosted with botanicals such as Arnica Montana flower which reduces skin flaking, hydrolysed collagen which improves skin resilience and also CICA for radiance and treating pigmentation.
Summary: Botanicals can restore a healthy balance, regulate the skin microenvironment, sebum production.
ACNE SPOT TREATMENT:
Inflamed acne papules cause significant scarring, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and may become infected cysts. Early spot treatment must be non irritating and create a moist wound healing environment for rapid healing. The Blemish Spot Cream based on the latest dermatological research on the skin microenvironment, it contains botanical extracts like chlorella vulgaris, argan oil and synthetic mimics of amino acids such as methionine. Chlorella has an anti-inflammatory effect, argan oil extract helps with treating pigmentation and methionine boosts wound healing. The formulation ensures that it is suited for all skin types including sensitive skin as it treats acne while healing the skin barrier.
HYDROCOLLOID PATCH:
An essential part of acne spot treatment is the use of hydrocolloid patches. There are different types of hydrocolloid patches and not all are created equal. For instance the Blemish Vanish Patch has additional built-in anti-inflammatory and skin healing properties such as glycerin that helps to repair damaged and broken skin, urea which is a gentle keratolytic, meaning it exfoliates dead skin cells. It can treat inflamed acne papules and cysts and also prevent acne scars such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Additional benefits include
Prevents squeezing and picking
Repairs skin barrier (infused with hydrating glycerin)
In-built skin sensor which turns white when ready
Anti-bacterial effect from special polymer material used
Exfoliates dead skin cells with urea —gentle and effective for sensitive skin
No Essential Oils*
Here’s why you should not use pimple patches that have active ingredients infused in them, essential oils, salicylic acid etc. The reason for this is a phenomenon known as occlusion. Under occlusion, skin behaves differently, for example, remember when you got skin irritation from your pimple cream? Multiply that by 10 times. When you suffocate the skin under any sort of material, skin magically absorbs much more of what is applied on skin. So unless you are using a moisturiser, everything else will irritate skin. The point about pimple patches is that they are not meant to treat acne per se—too late. The acne bump has already formed. The point here is to help skin heal. Essential oils and acids only serve to irritate broken skin rather than heal it. There are 2 important features in the Blemish Vanish Patch that treats acne spots:
Repairing the skin barrier
Exfoliating dead skin with a keratolytic, urea vs using salicylic acid. In fact, urea is also used as a moisturiser that heals the skin barrier. Salicylic acid on the other hand can burn through skin causing irritant contact dermatitis.
Most skin irritation occurs under occlusion, because absorption is enhanced. So non-irritating acne treatment ingredients like that in the Blemish Spot Cream when used with the hydrocolloid patch instead enhance skin healing and repair.